On Karpathos, sitaka is a dairy product made from cream skimmed off the top of ewe’s milk over a period of weeks, heating it to separate the proteins from the liquids, then reheating the solids until they are pale gold in color. It melts, browns, and is used in local cuisine in gamopilafo or over pasta. On Kassos, sitaka is a sharp with the consistency of a creamy, slightly grainy spread similar to thick strained yogurt or cream cheese. It is made by fermenting sheep’s or goat’s milk for several days; it is then salted and simmered over low heat. Sitaka is consumed like a spread but is also used in the island’s best-known dish, makarounes—boiled pasta tossed with sitaka and caramelized onions.