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The Nobel laureate poet Odysseus Elytis described magical Thera as the «daughter of a great rage», a reference to island’s volcano and its archetypal beauty. Santorini also has scores of churches dedicated to various saints whose feast day is observed with a colorful panigyri. On October 20, preparations for the panigyri of Ayia Matrona at Finikia, the old farmers’ district of Oia, begin on the morning of the day before when locals cut palm branches to decorate the church, men quarter meat and place it in large vats, and women prepare the kselouristo bakaliaro, a special cod dish made with fresh cod, spring onions, olive oil, lemons, boiled potatoes, caper leaves, and fresh tomato. In the evening, a double tolling of the church bells summons the faithful to services. On the day of the feast itself, immediately after church services, the icon of Ayia Matrona is taken through the village, whose lanes have been laid with rosemary and rose geranium. Later, the panigyri begins as pilgrims feast on gamopilafo, meat grilled in the outdoor wood-burning oven, and cod as the music plays. On February 1, the church of Ypapanti at Oia hosts a panigyri while the feast of the Ayii Anargyri is observed at Megalohori on July 1 with a panigyri and the feast of Profitis Ilias on July 20 at Fira. Monolitho honors the birth of Ayios Ioannis Prodromos on June 24 with a panigyri, while the feast of the Dormition of the Virgin on August 15 is celebrated at Megalohori and the church of Panayia Episkopi at Kamari. Ayios Ioannis Prodromos’s feast is observed with a panigyri at Perissa on August 29m while the feast of the Entry of Virgin on November 21 is observed with a panigyri at Panagia Lagadiou.
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