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Nisyros is an incredible, primitive sculpture of lava created by Greece’s only active volcano in the eastern Aegean. It is shaped from black lava, white pumice, and red rust—the materials used for building homes, churches, and fortifications on the island. It’s a wild, yet also serene landscape littered with quaint villages and the unusual colors created by the volcanic eruptions and a land populated by welcoming inhabitants. Nisyros offers the visitor a wondrous terrain to explore and some vivid traditions to experience. Cultural events and festivals are numerous in the summer. Each panigyri is accented by the music of the violin, santouri, and lute and dishes like boukounies, kapamas, pitthia, diples, loukoumades, finikia, kourabiedes, and pastellaria. Islanders love music and dance, which is also a big part of their celebrations. The feast of the island’s patron-saint, Ayios Nikitas, is observed on June 21. The panigyri of Ayios Pandeleimon is on July 27, while the feast day of Panayia Kyra is observed on August 23. An old custom, the traditional wedding, is revived at the height of summer with a vibrant celebration. The panigyri of Panayia Spiliani on August 15, the Dormition of the Virgin, is the most popular. A dirge reminiscent of Good Friday us sung after the evening services, which are followed by a dinner of fasting foods and loukoumades, fried dough puffs drizzled with honey. During the main service, a group of women known as enniameritises who have brought the ingredients with them to the church make kolyva, the wheat-berry mix given at funerals and memorial services, to the accompaniment of dirges. Enniameritises means “nine days” and describes women who have made a solemn vow to pass nine days and nine nights at the monastery working to prepare the feast. After the service, the kolyva and icon are taken in procession to the monastery dining room where a lavish meal is served. Leaving, pilgrims kiss the icon, accept kolyva from the priest, and leave a small donation. Islanders dress in traditional costume—vraka or pantaloons for men, embroidered shirts for women—during feast days.
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