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Mykonos, an island that entices the global jet-set but is also associated with the mystic Delos off its coast, boasts more than fifty religious folk festivals or panigyria. First on the calendar is Theophania, or Epiphany, on January 6, with the blessing of the waters or Balosia that inaugurates the nautical season with feasting and music. Also notable are the feasts of Ayii Anargyri, Ayia Marina on July 17, Ayia Paraskevi on July 26, Ayios Panteleimonas on July 27, and Sotiros on August 6. Islanders also observe the feasts of Ai Haralambis by the Windmills, Ayia Anna at Myrsini, Ayia Anna at Vounia, Ai Yiannis at Ornos, Ayia Kyriaki on Delos, Ayia Triada on Rhineia and at Stapodia and Tragonisi. Another important religious feast is Ayii Apostoloi, observed June 30 on the beachfront, with seafood meze, music, and dances. The feast of the Dormition of the Virgin on August 15 and the Apodosis of the Dormition nine days later, on August 23, are special observances. A panigyri is held on both dates in the square at Ano Mera outside the Monastery of Panayia Tourliani. Folk music at all Mykonos feasts features the violin, santouri, tsabouna, and toumbaki that set the tempo for the traditional dances like the syrto, balaristo, sousta, and ballos. Musicians are locals: zygies or duets, tsabounierides (bagpipe players), but also devotees of instruments from the east like the lagouto, santouri, and accordion. Palates are tempted with the meat broth that prepares revelers’ stomachs for the erifi yahni or lamb ragout, onion pie, kale with lard, dolmas (stuffed vine rolls), spicy kopanisti cheese, louza, and cod with garlic puree. In addition to these religious folk festivals, Mykonos also hosts the “wine harvest festival” in September when donkeys are used to draw water from the wells, windmills are put back into operation, kouvarotes (round loaves of peasant bread), pouloi (another type of bread), and onion pies bake in the ovens while youths stomp grapes in the press to the tune of the sambouna and toumbaki. Another custom observed on Mykonos is the hirosfayia or pig slaying, in October. A communal feast, complete with music and dancing, is organized around the annual slaying of the pig and preparation of various delicacies with pork meat and lard. While guests sing, drink, and trade quips, the lard is melted into glina which is used in local dishes instead of olive oil. Pieces of meat are seasoned as tsigarides or cut into pieces and rubbed with spices, savory, thyme, and oregano before being stuffed inside the cleaned pig’s intestines to make the flavorful sausages that is air-cured in the Aegean breeze. During carnival or apokries, which precedes Lent, islanders dress up as koukougeroi according to local custom and dance around the streets singing Dionysian songs.
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