O Drakos
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A Few Words
Yorgos Drakos’s restaurant embraces one end of Mylopotas bay like a cove. Established in the Sixties when hippies occupied the nearby caves, it is just as much a part of the landscape as the broad sand beach, the rocks, and the homes of the French artists at the beach’s far end. The fishing boats are tied to the dock by the nets dumped next to the blue chairs as mullets in the water and cats on land compete for the crumbs rolling off patrons’ tables. Mylopotas has changed since Drakos opened. Supplies are no longer brought from Hora by donkey nor do patrons reach the restaurant over a footpath or reside in the caves. But some things do remain the same. Zucchini blossoms destined to be stuffed with rice for tsimetia or fried in batter are picked in the kitchen garden every morning. Milk is soured and thickened into fresh cheese daily—Ios’s famed ksino, a soft white cheese spread on barley risks or added to tomato salad. The small table with the two white buckets filled with seawater also continues to occupy the same spot at the end of the dock. The little blue table is used for cleaning fresh catch like the scorpion fish to be grilled shortly—a recipe introduced to the island from Crete. Drakos is a family-run taverna that continues the legacy of Barba-Yorgis and Kyra-Irini with a broad smile and friendly service. The extensive menu features Greek dishes from which the seafood meze and fresh fish procured from Ios and Kalymnos fishermen daily stand out. These fish are often grilled over charcoal, while lobster is served with spaghetti in a tomato sauce (astakomakaronada) and shrimp and mussels are simmered together in the oven with orzo (youvetsi). There’s also marinara, octopus prepared four different ways, a paella-like seafood dish, fish soup, and chickpea balls. Fine Cyclades wine sold by the jug or ouzo from Mytilene’s Plomari area are perfect for washing down these treats. Drakos is open early May through September, from 1 p.m. to midnight.
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