Folegrandros, or Polykandros as it was known in antiquity, always wins over visitors with its tranquility, curved forms, and welcoming harbor of Karavostasis. The journey over the island begins there and follows the stone-paved paths of Kastro and Hora’s winding lanes which offer welcome respite from the heat by day and entertainment by night. Folegandros’s Hora, or main village, is considered one of the prettiest in all of the Cyclades and it’s here, on Kontarini square, that Yiannis and Kyriaki Sideri established Piatsa (or piazza) in 1988. Other than the food, it’s claim to fame is a secret glass-covered well under the floor that was admired by Queen Sophia of Spain during a visit. Piatsa generously offers its patrons a range of delicacies. Kyriaki hand-rolls the noodles cut into the pasta known locally as matsata which she then cooks with goat or chicken or pork in a tomato sauce, or with beef in lemon sauce, or just serves plain tossed with a little cheese or topped with ground beef sauce. The stifado—rabbit stewed with pearl onions in a tomato sauce—has been declared divine. In early summer, milk from goats and sheep is thickened into the soft white cheese called souroto that is served at Piatsa but also used to make flavorful savory cheese pie. Other popular dishes are boiled amaranth, picked from Yannis garden, a thick chickpea stew slow-cooked in the oven, and a light watermelon pie. Plant beds at Ano Meria are thick with mint, parsley, basil, and rose geranium as well as rosemary, oregano, chamomile, and other herbs used to make tisanes to treat winter colds. Saffron is picked around November and used to color dishes and capers gathered in summer are pickled and used in salads. Yannis also maintain hives whose bees feed on the flowers of wild thyme and savory. Piatsa is open from late May through September.