A landscape that’s both tranquil and wild, picturesque villages, unusual colors created by the volcanic lava that has spilled over the land, and hospitable locals: these are some of the things Nisyros offers visitors as it inspires them to explore the land and its flavors. Mandraki, the island’s capital and harbor, extends along the shore with the port at one end and the fortified Kastro and Monastery of Panagia Spiliani rising at the other. Between these two points, whitewashed two-story homes seemingly rise from the waterline, adding accents of blue and green with their painted wooden balconies and window frames. The picture is completed by a small sand beach and windmill. Mandraki is a tiny tempest of well-preserved cobblestone shop-lined lanes leading to small squares like the one framed by the town hall or the Ilikiomeni. Pebble mosaics of black or white stones draw the eye to different parts of each square with their motifs, alternately geometric or animal. Irini, a family-run restaurant, occupies one of the corners of Ilikiomeni square under some ancient shade trees. Established in 1981, the restaurant offers home-cooked dishes made from ingredients grown by the owners. Dishes include tyrokafteri, a spicy spread made with creamy local cheese; rice-stuffed vegetables slowly cooked in their juices; goat in tomato sauce; and a selection of grilled meats. Irini is an excellent post for watching the setting sun as it paints the Aegean in reds. Enjoy while sampling one of the home-made desserts, like Irini’s signatire galaktoboureko—custard pie baked in fyllo and soaked in syrup.